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Posted: Friday, October 3, 2003

Grooming is about more than looks

Excerpted from The Horse Riding and Care Handbook, by Bernadette Faurie

Grooming is essential for maintaining a healthy coat and skin, it is no mere cosmetic process. In the wild, horses are "groomed" by companions in the herd. You can observe horses in the field scratching each other, and on their own, rolling and scratching themselves to remove mud and dust as well as scurf, sweat and loose hair, which in combination with the massage action promotes circulation, and cell and coat renewal. In the wild, grooming is an enjoyable process for the horse as it induces relaxation and helps it "bond" with its companions. The domesticated horse needs man to take over that role and task.

Even in a busy stable where handlers have several horses to groom each day, the grooming period is a chance for a pat and a stroke, plus some affectionate words. For young horses, it is an important part of the process of getting to know and trust their new herd leader, the human.

New riders will find that grooming is a good way to get to know horses and build confidence in being around them. While the length of times required will vary according to the individual handler and horse, and experienced groom will take from ten minutes for a quick brush-up to up to an hour for a full groom and trimming session

The horse should be lightly brushed off, and otherwise tidied up before exercise. This provides an opportunity to check the horse over before riding. The main grooming session should come after exercise, to remove sweat and dirt and to generally make the horse comfortable before it is returned to the stable.

Ideally, grooming should be carried out in a separate area, not in the stall. This ensures that dust does not clog the horse's habitat and also usually ensures more light for the groom.

The horse should be secured with a halter and rope. Cross ties-where the horse is secured with two ropes, one on either side, attached to two points in an aisleway, wash rack or grooming stall-are ideal. These allow the handler equal access to both side of the horse, and mischievous horse cannot turn around and groom its handler (i.e. nip him or her!). If this is not an option, then the horse should be tied securely on a shortish length of rope to avoid too much moving around.

All ropes and ties in stable should be purposely designed, with easily released knots or panic snaps, in case the horse is startled and pulls back. Ropes should always be tied using a quick release knot for the same reason. They should not necessarily be attached directly to a hook or wall ring. Wall rings are more safely utilized if a piece of twine or string is attached to the ring itself and the rope is then tied to this. If the horse pulls back hard the twine will break easily, whereas a wall ring won't give way, and the horse could injure itself or it's handler.

The first task is to pick out the horse's feet. With your inside hand, hold the hoof in a supporting grip around the base, near the coronet area, and use the pick to remove any bedding or mud, working from the heel to the toe, take care when cleaning the cleft of the frog. Picking out the feet not only helps you keep a barn tidy, it is an opportunity to check the foot is healthy and that shoes are secure before and after exercise.

It is important that the grooming process should not strip the coat of its natural oils. In many big training stables, horses are rinsed down after exercise. Excess moisture is then removed with a sweat scraper. Shampoo can be used to wash the horse once in a while, such as before a show, but sustained use can strip the coat of its natural lubrication and shine.

Generally, the grooming process begins with the removal of sweat and mud, starting at the top of the horse head and working down. When working on the left side of the horse, the brush should be held in the left hand, and vice versa. When working on the hind end, it can be helpful to grasp the tail in your free hand. It not only avoids a potentially painful swish in your face, but discourages a ticklish horse from kicking out.

A rubber curry comb is the most effective tool for removing mud, dust, and caked sweat. It is used in a circular massaging motion (never scrubbing) on the soft parts of the body. It should never be used for the bony head or lower legs, where a softer dandy brush should be used.

Once the worst dirt has been removed, the main massage process can begin. A body brush is used in short, sweeping strokes over the muscles. After every few sweeps, swipe the brush over the curry comb (held in your free hand) to keep the bristles free form dust and loose hairs. Tap the curry comb periodically on the floor to remove dust. Areas such as under the belly, under the mane, and between the legs should not be forgotten.

Brushing manes and tails should be avoided, and even gentle brushing can cause breakage in hairs that take year to replace. The mane and base of the tail can be combed to stimulate growth, but hairs and tangles should be separated by hand. This process can be aided by the application of a conditioning or detangling spray or product.

Dip a small sponge in warm water, and wring it out, then gently wipe the horse's eyes, mouth, and nostrils.

Once you are finished, the horse can return, clean and relaxed, to it's stall or pasture.

The excerpt presented courtesy of the Lyon's Press. To order this book, please go to www.lyonspress.com.


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