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Posted: Wednesday, May 7, 2003

The Big South Fork - best place to ride in the East

By Kym Rouse Campbell

The Big South Fork of the Cumberland River is one of only a handful of rivers designated as a national river and one of the few rivers in the eastern U.S. that has not been dammed for flood control or hydroelectric power generation. It cuts through ancient gorges on the Cumberland Plateau, draining about 1,400 square miles of some of the most primitive, isolated lands in the eastern U.S. The Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area (NRRA) was established in 1974 and includes approximately 123,000 acres of the Big South Fork drainage basin in north-central Tennessee and southeastern Kentucky.

The Big South Fork NRRA is one of Tennessee and Kentucky's best kept secrets. It has wonderful accommodations and trails and is, in my opinion, the best place to horseback ride and vacation with your horse in the East. No matter how you choose to explore the Big South Fork NRRA, it is rare to see a lot of people. Although the Big South Fork NRRA is a reclaimed wilderness, you will not find more spectacular scenery and natural architecture anywhere east of the Rocky Mountains. With its gorges hundreds of feet deep and other spectacular natural features, the Big South Fork NRRA is like a small Grand Canyon covered by lush, eastern forests.

Within the Big South Fork NRRA, there are over 200 miles of fantastic trails specifically designed for horses. Trails and roads are shared by horseback riders, hikers, mountain bikers, and off-road vehicle users. The trails going in and out of the river and creek gorges are steep and sometimes rocky, while those on the tableland are easy, often with sandy, level footing. Taking the spur trails to view the various overlooks while you are out riding is well worth your time. Hitching posts are available to tie your horse to while you walk out to see the spectacular view. These overlooks also make great rest or lunch spots.

Suggested short rides from the Bandy Creek area include Jacks Ridge Loop and to Leatherwood Overlook and back. Three suggested longer rides starting from the Bandy Creek area include: (1) North White Oak Loop, (2) a loop combining parts of North White Oak Loop, Groom Branch, Gernt, and Coyle Branch Trails, and the O&W Railroad Bed, and (3) a loop to Charit Creek Lodge and back using Jacks Ridge, Black House Branch, Charit Creek Lodge, Station Camp Creek, and Duncan Hollow Trails. Excellent trails around the Charit Creek Lodge area include Station Camp Creek, Hatfield Ridge, and Gobblers Knob Trails. Around the Station Camp area, the Pilot/Wines and Big Island Loops are both great trails. Cotton Patch Loop is a wonderful trail that begins at Slavens Branch Trailhead. Bear Creek and Lee Hollow Loops are great trails that start in the Bear Creek area.

photo: trail
Station Camp Creek Trail is one of the outstanding horse trails located in the Charit Creek Lodge area. Photo by Todd S. Campbell
When visiting the Big South Fork NRRA, you can keep your horse at Bandy Creek Stables and camp at Bandy Creek Campground. The campground and stables are about a quarter mile from each other, within easy walking/biking/driving distance. The stables make a great base location for exploring the Big South Fork NRRA on horseback since many great trails can be accessed from the stables.

Bandy Creek Stables has 54 10'x10' stalls. When the barns are full, sheltered and unsheltered tie-out stalls are available. Make your reservations early since the stables are busy, especially during the spring and fall. Bandy Creek Campground, located in Tennessee, is the largest campground within the Big South Fork NRRA and is open year-round. It has 100 developed sites with water and electrical hookups, 50 tent sites, and two large group sites (no electrical hookups) with cooking shelters. Bathhouses with hot showers are located throughout the campground. Adjacent to the campground are a swimming pool, volleyball court, and playground. Reservations are not required but are recommended.

Two excellent campgrounds within the Big South Fork NRRA offer camping with your horse. Station Camp Horse Camp has 24 campsites and is located west of Oneida, Tennessee. Bear Creek Horse Camp, which has 23 campsites, is west of Stearns, Kentucky. All campsites at both horse camps have tables, grills, water and electrical hookups, and uncovered, metal tie-out stalls for four horses. Each horse camp has modern restrooms with hot showers. Miles of great horses trails can be accessed from each horse camp. Both campgrounds are open year-round, and reservations are highly recommended.

At least one night's stay at Charit Creek Lodge, located within the Big South Fork NRRA, is highly recommended. It provides wonderful food and backcountry accommodations. The lodge is located in a picturesque valley at the confluence of Station Camp Creek and Charit Creek. The only way to get there is to ride your horse (or hike or bike). In addition to the fun you'll have getting there, the lodge makes a great base camp for additional riding. There is nothing like sitting in a rocking chair on the porch of one of the cabins after a day of riding and a hearty meal, watching fireflies, gazing at a sky full of stars, and listening to the night sounds and the water.

The lodge has two rooms in the main building, two cabins, and stables for your horse. When you make reservations, you can also rent a stall for your horse, which includes hay (pack in your feed). You can also picket or corral your horse. There is no electricity at Charit Creek Lodge. Complete restroom facilities and warm showers (available seasonally) are available. The lodging fee for full service guests includes a hearty dinner that night and country breakfast the next morning. If you stay more than one night, lunch is included. Reservations for lunch can be made for day users of the NRRA, as well as for overnight guests. Charit Creek Lodge also makes a great destination for a day ride, a place to stop, eat lunch, relax, and take a nap before you continue on your adventure. They have hitching racks, picnic tables, and restroom facilities.

For more information, purchase Exploring Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area, The Globe Pequot Press, ISBN 076271090X) or go to www.nps.gov/biso.


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