Palo Duro Canyon... the "Grand Canyon" of Texas

"Palo Duro" is Spanish for "hardwood". Juniper trees are common throughout the canyon as well as mesquite, cottonwood, salt cedar, willow, western soapberry and hackberry. Wildflowers add color to the already colorful geology. The different rock formations of bright red claystone, white gypsum and yellow, gray and lavender mudstone are dotted with Indian blanket, star thistle, sunflower, paperflower, tansy aster and blackfoot daisy. Sideoats grama, buffalo grass, sagebrush, yucca and prickly pear cactus are also common on the canyon floor and walls. All this offers panoramic views of magnificent color for the visitor's enjoyment.

As colorful as the interior of Palo Duro Canyon is its rich history. Native American tribes in the area included Kiowa, Comanche and Cheyenne. The end of the Red River War in 1874 forced Southern Plains Tribes to surrender and return to reservations in Oklahoma. From 1876 to 1890 Colonel Charles Goodnight operated the JA Ranch utilizing most of the Canyon. Reaching its peak in 1885 the JA Ranch covered 1,325,000 acres of land and 100,000 head of cattle.

In 1878 Comanche Chief Quanah Parker and a large group of Comanche and Kiowa returned to the Palo Duro Canyon from their reservations in Oklahoma Territory. Not finding the buffalo they expected to feed themselves on they slaughtered JA Ranch cattle. Goodnight met with Quanah Parker and they negotiated a treaty. Goodnight would supply the Indians two steers a day until they found buffalo. Before finding buffalo Quanah Parker led the Indians back to the reservations in Oklahoma. A bust statue and memorial honoring this great Chief is in the Canyon. The town of Quanah, Texas is also named for Quanah Parker.

After the Indians had left Goodnight found and corralled a small wild herd of buffalo, which became the breeding stock for the magnificent beast we have today. Goodnight is credited with saving the buffalo. Visitors to Palo Duro Canyon State Park can inspect a restoration of the line shack dugout Charles Goodnight called home in the Canyon.

For a spectacular theatrical reproduction of the Parks history visit the Pioneer Amphitheatre located in Palo Duro Canyon State Park. Texas Legacies is presented nightly except Sunday from June 3rd - August 21st for the 2004 season. The outdoor Pioneer Amphitheatre seats 1700. An addition for 2004 is Heavenly Country, an entertaining musical presented on Sundays. A barbecue meal is served prior to all shows. More information on the presentations at the Amphitheater is available by calling 806-655-2181 or visit www.epictexas.com.

The Lone Star Interpretive Theater located near the Hackberry campground presents park programs and educational tours throughout the year. Tours can be scheduled by calling 806-488-2227, ext. 49.

Memorial honoring Comanche Chief, Quanah Parker, in Palo Duro Canyon State Park, Texas. Photo by Pat Dugger

Visitors may bring their own horses/mules. There are two large trailer-parking areas to unload at the designated equestrian campground. Six campsites with corral and water are nearby. Camping is primitive and you must bring your own water buckets for your horses/mules and drive or walk to a nearby camping area for restrooms and showers. Modern camping areas for visitors traveling without horses/mules are also available with R.V. Hookups as well as cabin rentals are within the Canyon. Old West Stables located on the Canyon Floor is open year-round for horse rental. The wranglers there offer a scenic horseback tour and a narrated mule-drawn covered wagon ride of Timbercreek Canyon. Although we prefer our own mules/horses for riding we rented horses on this trip and weren't disappointed. The horses from the stable knew their job and Timbercreek Canyon leaving us to enjoy the scenery and the wildlife. Deer, wild turkey and quail did the entertaining on our ride. An all-day excursion to Sunday Canyon and the Lighthouse Formation can also be arranged at Old West Stables. A variety of snacks and drinks are available at the Stables as well as a gift shop. Group outings for special events are their specialty at Old West Stables. For details call 806-488-2180.

Another option for horse rentals is at The Palo Duro Stables & Six Gun City. If you're a real city slicker riding lessons are available here before mounting up for a day of riding in the Canyon. Delight in watching authentic gunfight re-enactments while at The Palo Duro Stables & Six Gun City. Located on Texas Hwy 217 just a mile from the entrance to the Canyon this popular attraction has been used in several movies. They can be reached at 806-488-2799.

Mountain bikes are quite popular on the Canyon trails, however there are no bike rentals available, so if that is your preference bringing your own is necessary. Trail rules require that bikers yield to hikers and equestrians.

Many caves are in the Canyon but entering them is not advised. Not only are they unstable but also rattlesnakes and 13 species of bats inhabit them.

The only eatery within the boundaries of Palo Duro Canyon is The Chuckwagon; offering basic cafeteria-style dining for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Lunch and dinner menu among other fare, offers buffalo burgers.

Equestrian enthusiasts have much more to explore than Palo Duro Canyon State Park while in this area of Texas. Amarillo, Texas is a mere 25 miles from the Canyon and has a history linked to horses. Amarillo is home to the American Quarter Horse Heritage Center and Museum. With 20,000 sq. ft. of displays it features a Hall of Fame, a research library, entertaining exhibits and showcasing modern activities of this horse. The AQHA is the worlds largest equine association with 330,000 members and 4 million registered horses worldwide. Easy to see why it is a major player in the equine industry. Tours can be arranged on request by calling 806-376-5181.

Amarillo, Texas is the center of an area with countless opportunities to enjoy a variety of activities. If eating is an activity you enjoy you'll you're in for some real treats here. Known around the world is the Big Texan Steak Ranch, Opry and Cowboy Palace offering the Big Texan's famous 72 oz steak. Eat it and all the trimmings in one hour and it's free. Every Tuesday night enjoy the Big Texan Opry. Performed in the Cowboy Palace this is a lively western show featuring great regional country-western entertainers. During the summer on Thursday, Friday and Saturday mornings a special campfire breakfast is available at the Big Texan. Whatever your appetite craves you'll find it in Amarillo. We sampled Tex-Mex at Ruby Tequila's Mexican Kitchen while there and if it not so far from us would go there often.

Want more real west enjoyment before leaving the area. Cowboy Morning at the Figure 3 Ranch offers horse-drawn wagon rides to the rim of the Palo Duro Canyon. View miles of breathtaking beauty while your breakfast is being cooked over an open mesquite fire. A Cowboy Evening is also available. For dining, lodging and other activities in and around Amarillo go to www.visitamarillotx.com.

Just west of Amarillo along Interstate 40 is the only one of its kind in the world ranch: the famed Cadillac Ranch. Presented angled nose down and planted in a pasture are 10 Classic Cadillacs ranging from a 1949 Club Coupe to a 1963 Sedan. You are invited to get out and browse around. Admission is free. History and details of the Cadillac Ranch is available at www.libertysoftware.be/cml/cadillacranch/ranch/crabtr.htm

Canyon City, Texas takes its name from the spectacular Palo Duro Canyon. Lying 12 miles from the Palo Duro, Canyon City boosts Texas' largest history museum, The Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum. Located on the campus of West Texas A&M University in Canyon City, Texas the Museum has more than three million artifacts covering Texas history.

Palo Duro Canyon State Park is located 25 miles from Amarillo, Texas. From Amarillo take Interstate 27 south to Texas 217 then drive eight miles east. The Park is about 12 miles east of Canyon, Texas on State Hwy 217. Call 806-488-2227 or visit www.palodurocanyon.com and ride into some of the fascinating history of Texas.